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Awesome! So with that out of the way, and if you are interested in learning to do this yourself, you will need tools! Fortunately changing disc pads requires only simple hand tools for our test car, an 89-94 Suzuki Swift GL. Here's what you will need for the job:
Car Jack, Jack Stands (pair), Wheel spanner, Wrenches (10mm - 14mm), WD-40, small piece of sand paper, lithium based grease, rag cloth, new disc pads, brake fluid (optional).
Step 1: Crack (loosen) all lugs from both front wheels;
Step 2: Jack the car at the proper jack point (centre preferred) and support the jack with the jack stands (pic).
Step 3: Begin with any side and remove the wheel. Inspecting the brake lines, rotor, bushings and joints while the wheel is off
for any looseness is always a good idea (pic).
Step 4: Using a correctly sized wrench/spanner (12mm in this case), loosen and remove the lower bolt that attaches
the caliper to the caliper bracket. The bolt head will be on the inside of the caliper bracket assembly (pic).
Step 5: Once the bolt is completely removed (pic), the caliper bracket should slide off with relative ease.
Since there is another bolt that holds the caliper in place, the caliper will slide upwards, pivoting on the upper bolt (pic).
If the caliper takes a bit of muscle to remove, you may consider refreshing the sliding pins as identified in step 7 below.
Step 6: With the caliper out of the way, the old dic pads should be clearly seen, held in the bracket on either side of the brake rotor (pic). Remove the old pads and inspect them for wear. In our case, the old pads were almost totally gone, and a good thing we decided to change them in time. If a pad wears too low where there is no more pad material, the metal material of the pad will start to rub on the rotor (metal grinding on metal...not good!) and the rotor will also have to be changed/ground as it will almost certainly be damaged.
Step 7: With old disc pads off, check the sliding mechanism of the caliper. The caliper slides on two pins, which the bolts (we just removed the lower one, remember?) run through. If there is any caking of material, or the pins do not move freely, then the pins and rubbers will have to be refreshed (as in our case). If any of the rubbers (pic) have holes or tears, they must be replaced.
Step 8: To refresh the rubbers and pins the rubbers will have to be removed from the pins, by sliding the pin to either side until it is
detached from the pin. Then gently pull the rubber away from the caliper (use WD-40 if necessary to loosen it out). Then remove
the pin from the caliper and inspect it for wear/corrosion. Our pins were slightly corroded and along with the rubbers needed
re-greasing, so we removed the other bolt so that the entire caliper separated from the bracket.
Step 9: Before re-greasing the pins and rubbers, it is likely that old grease would have caked-up in each of the caliper holes,
pins and rubbers. Use some WD-40 and a cloth to get it all out. Dry it nice and clean and then apply a generous coating
of lithium grease to the outside of the pins, inside of the rubbers and the inside the caliper holes.
Replace the pins (which should now move smoothly) and rubbers.
Step 10: After removing the old disc pads, spray the disc pad mounting pins with some WD-40 to clean and lubricate the surface.
While it dries, apply a thin coat of grease to the "ears" of the new pads. Inspect the old shim and clean if necessary with WD-40.
We had to use a bit of sandpaper AND the WD-40 on our shim. If the new pads came with shims then don't worry about cleaning
the old ones, just use the new ones instead.
Step 11: With the caliper and caliper bracket prepped mount the new disc pads in place, making sure they evenly sit against the
rotor (pic). It is almost mandatory that the brake piston will have to be reset (pushed in) to accomodate for the thickness of the new
pads. To do this we first remove the cover from the brake master cylinder reservoir, to allow the fluid to back up without creating an
opposing pressure when the piston is pushed (pic). As we removed both bolts, the top bolt will have to be replaced. The caliper
needs to be pivoted upward so the bolt can be re-inserted. Tighten this bolt right down with sufficient torque (about 35-40 ft/lb).
Use any sturdy bar and leverage it for the tip to rest on the piston edge surface, not in contact with the piston rubber seal and
with even force, prise the brake piston back into the caliper just enough so that the caliper and piston clear the new pads.
Step 12: Once this is done, the caliper should slide over the new pads and settle unto the bracket easily.Time to get the second
bolt back in and tightened up like the first. There may be a slight play with the caliper assembly after tightening, but this is only
because the piston is not into full contact with the new pad. Immediately re-cover the reservoir cap and pump the brake a couple
times; it should on the second or third pump get stiff. The caliper assembly should now have no movement at all.
Step 13: Replace the wheel and tighten the lugs so the wheel has no play.
Step 14: Go to the other front wheel and repeat steps 3 to 13 above.
Step 15: Remove the jack stands and lower the car down gently. Tighten the lugs again at least a quarter turn or until sufficiently tight. | 
